Betta food section

Knowing the proper way of feeding your betta is fundamental, becausenot right can have big your betta health consequences.Nothing is more stressful than to deal with a fish sick, right? So, let's do it right and get rid of the curse!

Here are a few golden rules for feeding your betta.

First, select the proper food. Betta are selective eaters. Abetta specific pellet is ok, but live and frozen foods are preferred.Recommended feed on frozen shrimps and frozenbloodworms.

The following rule is to not make your betta. Carefully dosethe meals, because even if fishes eat all what give you, it willproduce so more size when overfed and thejar pollution level, it is in will go beyond safe range, this problem is smaller if youkeep your betta in a more grand aquarium. Remember not to give up uneatenfood in the Aquarium! Once your betta and the rest of the fish doneeating, you must remove all non-consumed in food left. If you notremove, it will be punctually rot and wreak havoc in the tank.

Betta prefer to eat in the upper water column.They like to eat from the bottom of the tank. To beforedropping sure foods in the tank you have his attention. Lethim see food, get it close in the face of outside the theaquarium allow it to verify what it is, then this is! Dropfood in front of his nose. The best way is to drop a little little food - on 6 frozen brine shrimp look the betta eat everything and thenlook on the belly, if it looks the same as it did before you fed, it'sok to give them more, but always watching and you make sure the secondportion smaller than the first.

Your betta should go for the food right away, but if not, watchwhere flowing food and what is the betta. If there are more than 15 min hehas not eaten food has yet to remove food. Never leave the gocloudy of water. If it is already, then edit, just like water threatenyour betta health disorders. Normally, small bowls or containers should bechanged at least twice per week. Largest reservoir can be changed once per week.And if the levels of ammonia and nitrites are rising the roof, the becauseboth are very bad for your Betta. Beware also of bacteria harmful theycan ruining your life of fish, but they kill all the bacteria in the aquariumsince many bacteria is essential for an aquarium works well.

In the period pre-spawning you can eat a food variety, including blackworms, towards Grindal, flies, shrimp larvae of mosquitoes and frozen blood worms (are all life except worms frozenblood). During this period, adult fish can be fed nation 4 times or more, depending on proximity, fish are being placed adapts spawning reservoir.

You can start feeding your betta fry, 5 days after the thespawning. Food FRY several times per day, with a variety of foods (infusoria, yellow egg boiled, baby brine shrimp…) composed of smallparticles.

The Betta and ALPHA male/female

Betta like most creatures of natures, when living in a community structure will be eventually form a kind of controlled structure images fish. A fish dominant, usually a large, healthy, male or female sometimes testament boss other fish autour. Just as with the gorillas are known as «alhpa» fish There is a certain madness between fish and a lot of tapping until the ALPHA position has been established. However, once that the ALPHA has been established in reality will be peace in the tank.

ALPHA delete or add new fish and the cycle will start again as a new balance must be created.

It is natures way.

Betta fish care - section of the owner of Betta

Betta is a popular reservoir and its maintenance is less painful. However, it is necessary to care, and you must be careful about its heath. A sick Betta is easy to identify because naturally fish is very active and dynamic. If you've had fish for awhile you immediately identify when they are sick.

Following these tips can help you keep healthy and vibrant Betta ecosystem:

1 Bowl large enough to allow swimming ample space is a prerequisite. Fish should not bump and tear fins or scales. A fairly large reservoir ensures also that water has adequate oxygen level.

2 These fish require no filtration, but need more clean water that you can provide. Change the water every three days to keep clean and prevent infection in your fish. The water that add you to the tank should have established 24 hours (old water).

3 Betta are also called Siamese fighting fish because the male of the species will fight each other to death! Never put two males in the same tank. Females can stay together and so can a male with several females. You can also keep your Betta with algae eaters, Guppy and corydorus catfish.

4 Ensure that the bottom of the bowl or tank is free of debris. You can use something as simple as a baster Turkey do this cleaning. Sitting at the bottom debris will be cloudy and unsanitary water for fish. They will also cause the water to the smell.

5 Maintain the pH of 7 tank.

6 For accessories for tank cleaning, do not use soap because SOAP trace will change the pH of the water.

7 Betta can blow up tanks and bowls, so keep covered.

8 Betta is not a fussy fish and eat happily Betta pellets and frozen mud. However, the betta are depiction of live prey like shrimp, and you must serve as a treat from time to time.

A Betta video

Here's a nice betta orange little for you to check. Although I do not want the owner give to a larger tank.

Cain ladle

How to select a healthy Betta fish

As Betta fry tend to be very, very thin and small during the first 5-6 months, the age of the majority of the Betta fish found in pet are the stores around 6 months or more. At this stage, the store should have separate sexes. They do so because males will continuously become more aggressive in aging and mature. Maturing of males and females equally filled tank is a recipe for disaster.
1 Color betta
2 Ladders & Gill betta
3 Fin betta
4 Eyes betta
5 Beard betta
6 Behavior betta

1 Color betta

One of the reasons why Betta fish are so popular in pet stores today is due to their intense and dynamic - staining on males. Both sexes, males are more colorful. 6 To 7 months of age (the typical age of most of the Betta found in pet stores), the stain will be just beginning to be obvious on the male and female. It should be intensified with maturity.

Most pet stores will be bother trying to sell before betta colors have stepped up to the point of "marketable". Therefore, any Betta you select at a pet store should have enough coloring to make easy selection. Colors must be dynamic and distinct.

While several pet shops will not intentionally sell defective fish, it is not uncommon to find the Betta with pale. These betta should be avoided at all costs. They might suffer from some kind of fungal infection or simply have less genes.

2 Ladders & Gill betta

Healthy Betta fish have very smooth and streamlined appearance. The gill region should be smooth and free from start or too thin, or have any bulges.

If the gill box is too thin, the Betta may not be malnourished eat due to being stretched too or sick. When the gill area is swollen or swellings, constipation or is another factor at work. Betta with thin or thick, swollen gill areas may have to be fine, it is best to avoid the risk.

Scales a Betta can also say much about the overall health of the fish. Like the gill region they also should be smooth and flat. There should be no missing or loose scales. Loose or missing scales can be a sign of illness at work, or it may be due to a battle lost against another Betta. Whatever it is, loose or missing scales are not a good sign and should be avoided.

Dropsy is a problem with Betta and their scales. Dropsy is characterized by swelling of the scales to take the form of a pine cone shape as the condition worsens.

3 Fin betta

Apart from the vibrant coloring, the Betta fins are the other most attractive feature of the fish. When you select a Betta fish you want to pay particular attention to the fins. They should disseminate fully when flaring. Some Betta have fins bunch up, not fully spread not open due to some fight with another fish or due to a genetic defect.

Betta fins also need to be free from any holes, rips or tears.

Fin rot is a common problem for Betta and it has several possible causes, including genetic predisposition. However, the most common source of fin rot is dirty, impure water. When the animal is lax in its tasks of cleaning, tank became filled with too much feces and food not consumed. When feces and diet are left in water for too long, they will start to rot. As with any decomposition issue, it will result in bacterial populations increase. The increase in the number of bacteria attached to the end and the tail of the Betta and cause rot.

Fin rot causes small pieces of fins to break. Over time, fin consider incomplete and strands together will be missing. It is not uncommon for this condition in the reservoirs with too much betta or poorly maintained tanks. Small display, fastest fin rot tank becomes a potential problem.

Vases, or maybe small pots, are commonly used in the pet store and sell the Betta male fish - even females as well as in some cases. These small boats have low oxygen which naturally causes the upcoming Betta surface more often for air. This will increase the level of activity and metabolism of fish. In turn, this will increase the toxicity of the tank faster because waste will be accumulate faster. In addition, with a small ship, it takes less time for levels bacterial to rise to dangerous levels for the Betta. Therefore, be particularly sure to look carefully at the fins and tails of Betta sold in small containers because they are more likely to develop the fin rot.

When the end rot research, you also want to check the recent signs of the condition thus. There will be clear or whitish advice on late or tail because they are signs of recent regeneration. Avoid any Betta with tears or potential signs of decay in the end, if you can.

4 Eyes betta

Betta fish eyes bulge on each side of the head and are unable to blink so very concerned if you happen to catch a wink for you! Iris must be black, but the rest of the eye can be a wide range of colours. You want to be sure that the eyes are not cloudy or hazy and that they are proportional and not exceeding not of the body.

5 Beard betta

Although men and women technically have the infamous "Betta beard ', it is really only noticeable on males." In females, the beard is transparent, but can be seen if you know where to look.

Beard Betta lies directly beneath the gill plate cover and is actually a membrane. When the Betta gills are closed, the membrane will be projecting and be visible. This is when it will resemble a beard. Beard is also displayed in flaring.

AWN does not necessarily to the rest of the Betta colour - at least not exactly.

Betta fish should be ready to react to external stimuli, displaying his beard tapping so lightly on the side of the aquarium or glass should be enough to get the Betta to flare and show you its goods. Once you know where search, ensure that the female is also a hobbyistes membrane.

6 Behavior betta

With Betta fish don't want lazy fish.

The Betta you select must be active and responsive to external stimuli. In nature, the betta live and die by being alert to potential predators. Any possible threat will cause the Betta hide and wait the danger of moving. The Betta you choose should become more alert and stirred by your presence. If possible, the Betta should seek a hiding place and wait for you to leave. If the activity of the Betta does not materially increase by your presence, it is probably better to find another.